Pullon leader. Work Shop, make your own, Easy

Why, when and where, types, brands, usages, diameters, lengths used, colours and hardness factors.
Pullon Leader workshop, making your own leaders.

Pullon leader. Work Shop, make your own, Easy

Postby Paulus » Sat Jul 21, 2012 8:13 pm

Hi Guys,

This will grow as time permits as it is a working workshop... Paulus,,,, Looking at this are we building or analyzing,,, bit of both I guess.
Guess I should call them Paulus's Pullons.
Well guys it's all about fishing thinner and stronger, casting further fishing deeper with less drag and more feel.

This system will work with both Solid braid and hollow braid.
These slim Pullon leaders are designed and made with a single layer of Spectra Hollow Braid, and and a hard Momoi mono.

What you need to make them.
Hollow braid, use only 12 strand lines,, Plastic line for the leader,, Old thin braid for the pull thru,, Splicing wire (thinnest Guitar string folded over),, Scalpel,, Pliers,, Sand paper 400 grit (wet & dry) is best,, a head magnifier not really needed but i some times use one.

Step 1.
The Mono / plastic line.
Cut 3mts or the length you require, of leader material.
With the scalpel slice off a sliver to form a tapered point, taper is 12 to 15 times the diam (length to diameter).
Sand the line to remove the sharp edges, and to form a sharp point, removing any burrs and that may hinder the insertion process.

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Step 2.
Inserting the splicing wire.
Insert the wire at least 600mm into the hollow braid, start about 160mm in from the end inserting into the sidewall.
Bunch up the braid to open it up.

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Step 3.
Inserting the mono into the hollow.
Remove the splicing wire from the hollow braid, hold the braid at the insertion point so it remains bunched up.
Dampen the end of the mono and insert into the hollow braid, after the initial insertion you may need to smooth out the bunched up braid a little, like get the wrinkles out.
Insertion should be at least 500mm, longer if you think it may slip.

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Step 4.
Locking the inserted mono onto the hollow.
A simple method is to use two 6 turn uni knots, keep them as close as possible.
They are started back over the hollow, when pulled they form on the mono.

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Note,,, The second uni should have been closer to the first

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Step 5.
Making the pullon loop section.
This can be longer than the 920mm cut off point indicated.

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Step 6A.
Attaching the Pullon
To a solid braid using the Uni knot method.

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Step 6B.
Attaching the Pullon
1. To a Hollow braid as a splice.
2. You can also use a the above, using the Uni knot method.

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So What Works.

40lb hollow braid, Mono into.
Mono 30lb, 40lb, 50lb, 60lb, 75lb, 80lb if you can get it in.
Maximum strength is 52lb, leaders over 50lb the hollow braid will fail at the end of the mono taper. Dependant on the braids batch strength.

The 40lb hollow onto a solid braid.
This will hold onto 15lb braid mainline and some larger 10lb, up to 30lb solid braid mainlines, restriction is, thinner will slip unless it's ropey, the larger size may not go into the smaller hollow.

60lb hollow braid, mono into.
Mono 50lb, 60lb, 75lb, 80lb, 100lb more if you can get it in.
Maximum strength is 83lb, leaders over 80lb the hollow braid will fail at the end of the mono taper. Dependant on the braids batch strength.

The 60lb hollow onto a solid braid.
This will hold onto 25lb braid mainlines, up to 65lb solid braid mainline, restriction is, thinner will slip unless it's ropey, the larger size going onto the smaller hollow.

70lb hollow braid.
This is a step up from the 60lb.

80lb hollow braid, do not us a 16 strand, as a 12 strand yes.

100lb hollow braid.
This will work better than the 16 strand 80lb

Hollow to hollow is always stronger and a better bet.
more to come


Well it never stops. Lets look at what happens, so we can make them with out failures.

With the new 40lb hollow a footstep away, I have been playing with what works and from what I can see does not.
Its easy to get grip and breaking strain out of the system, but line creep of the mono in the hollow can be a killer.

Lets look at this line creep.
Mono inserted into the hollow braid and served with the two uni's, this can also happen with a pressure serve,,,
Caused by the flexibility / stretching of a mono line reducing it's diameter, a mono that is to soft and small, and the serve cannot hold as well as it should.
So
A harder line creeps less, but may slip.
A longer mono insert helps a little.
A bigger mono line works better.
A change to the serve may also help.
Deglaze the outer of the inserted mono.
A soft mono that is too small will continue to fail no matter what you do.

We look at wear and breakages.
Wear / fighting failure generally happens at the end of the mono.
This is caused by poor preparation of the mono's end, like not enough taper on the mono, as this causes rubbing wear, the sharp change in the braid fiber path will cause breakages at that point,,, Also no sharp edges.
Taper the mono 12 to 15 to one.
Sand the taper smooth to a point, size of the point determines the breaking strain of the system and it's wearability.

Lets look at the creep, this is the braid mainline inserted into the Pullons hollow,,,
1. Hollow to hollow, this holds very well, with less creep, as it is locked. Make Sure you have tapered the ends of the hollow as that is where it will fail.
2. Solid to hollow, as this is an external lock, it can slip so have the uni's very tight.

7. Some ideas that may be of interest Momoi a hard line that meets IGFA requirements, and also makes great leader material, hard coated with low stretch.
Note,,,, All the gear you need is available from Paulus Just Fishing. http://www.paulusjustfishing.com/catalog.htm#1, also available is a kit.

Just another way of doing it.

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more to come
Paulus
Last edited by Paulus on Wed Nov 14, 2012 12:42 pm, edited 17 times in total.
Paulus
 
Posts: 279
Joined: Sun Feb 21, 2010 9:44 am
Location: Highfields (Newcastle) NSW Australia

Tips N Tricks

Postby Paulus » Sun Aug 05, 2012 8:06 pm

Hi Guys
At times pushing the pointed mono into the hollow a long distance can be an issue.

After I inserted the splicing wire to the length required, rather than starting from the open end start from where the mono will end.
I made a short hollow loop, you can use just a short length of hollow,,, put the mono into it and pulled the lot through, now that made it easy.

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I may do this all the time.
Well this is so good I am doing it all the time, just makes it so easy.
Paulus
 
Posts: 279
Joined: Sun Feb 21, 2010 9:44 am
Location: Highfields (Newcastle) NSW Australia

Braid pulling / holding lug

Postby Paulus » Thu Aug 16, 2012 9:45 am

Hi Guys

The 160mm long tags are hard to grip at times, this is a little idea I came up with, a modified knotless.

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Keep in mind that holding method is not 100% of the braids abs, generally in the 80%+ area, so do not pull to hard.
Apply the tension and hold for 20 seconds till the uni changes to translucent.
Last edited by Paulus on Thu Aug 16, 2012 10:09 am, edited 1 time in total.
Paulus
 
Posts: 279
Joined: Sun Feb 21, 2010 9:44 am
Location: Highfields (Newcastle) NSW Australia

Re: Pullon leader. Work Shop, make your own, Easy

Postby Paulus » Thu Aug 16, 2012 10:08 am

Hi Guys
The other end of the leader needs to be held.
This sits on the end or edge of the bench.

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Guess I got sick of cut fingers and never getting it tight enough.
Paulus
 
Posts: 279
Joined: Sun Feb 21, 2010 9:44 am
Location: Highfields (Newcastle) NSW Australia

Braid splice wire Insertion problems

Postby Paulus » Thu Oct 04, 2012 10:37 am

Hi Guys

Well it can be difficult. So Follow this, it may help.
to start try cutting the braid with a scalpel rather than pincers, as pincers melts the braid shut.

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Flatten the braid both sides between thumb nail and fore finger each side a few times, this softens, straightens and widens out the braid.

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Open the braid a little if you are inserting from a center point, lay it on your finger, use your finger as a backing pad.
Not needed as much if starting from an open end.

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Push the wire into the center of the braid, careful not to exit out the back side.

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Hold the braid just behind the point of the wire and push the wire through, not to far and not to fast.

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If you notice that the wire is starting to run off center stop to straighten it.
The length of braid must always be supported on you left hand as shown, this keeps it in line with the wire.

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Should the wire slip through or look like slipping through the side wall, stop, pull the wire back a little, use your thumb nail and forefinger to straighten it again, between thumb and finger at times will do. Start this procedure on the tip of the wire and braid, as you are trying to align them both up again.

For most braids insertion is easy with a doubled over 0.3mm stainless steel wire, even the 40lb, although the 40lbT (tight) it is difficult and the wire should not have a big air gap at the tip.
Paulus.
Paulus
 
Posts: 279
Joined: Sun Feb 21, 2010 9:44 am
Location: Highfields (Newcastle) NSW Australia

Re: Pullon leader. Work Shop, make your own, Easy

Postby Paulus » Wed Nov 14, 2012 12:43 pm

Updated
Paulus
 
Posts: 279
Joined: Sun Feb 21, 2010 9:44 am
Location: Highfields (Newcastle) NSW Australia


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